Listening to Nas & Damian Marley off their Distant Relatives album makes me reminisce of their epic show more than a week ago. About to have a post sesh breakfast. LIFE is lovely & I live to enJOY every moment of it. My favorite part is enhancing its vibrancy by coloring each scene with my imagination. Dreams come true when you understand how to ride momentum and cruise with the flow.
Paddled out to Vals yesterday during sunset. It's been a month since I've went for a surf so my arms were pretty flimsy. Surfing and skimming are completely different to me. One is upper strength and the other is lower endurance. I had to flip my switch from skimboarder to surfer once I started duck diving on shallow reef. The water completely glassed over at dusk reflecting a mirror image of the universe above me. I spotted my first star and made a wish.
Woke up around 7am today and greeted the 2 caterpillars my honey surprised me with in a compostable cup made from corn. Raising butterflies is a trip. They are quite meticulous. Waves came down in Country and the trade winds are finally back to clear away the vog. I sampled the blown out shorebreak to the right of Pipeline then challenged myself to shuv-it across a mini pond created by high tide and consistent rain in the middle of the beach. It took me a few tries before I landed a couple and skidded up dry sand super stoked. There was one time my rail caught still water as I was spinning the board and I flew like a stunt dummy. [WARNING: Children please don't try this at home.]
Flatland skim is a riot! Props to Lexi Hutchings and all her flair in this department.
Paddled out to Vals yesterday during sunset. It's been a month since I've went for a surf so my arms were pretty flimsy. Surfing and skimming are completely different to me. One is upper strength and the other is lower endurance. I had to flip my switch from skimboarder to surfer once I started duck diving on shallow reef. The water completely glassed over at dusk reflecting a mirror image of the universe above me. I spotted my first star and made a wish.
Woke up around 7am today and greeted the 2 caterpillars my honey surprised me with in a compostable cup made from corn. Raising butterflies is a trip. They are quite meticulous. Waves came down in Country and the trade winds are finally back to clear away the vog. I sampled the blown out shorebreak to the right of Pipeline then challenged myself to shuv-it across a mini pond created by high tide and consistent rain in the middle of the beach. It took me a few tries before I landed a couple and skidded up dry sand super stoked. There was one time my rail caught still water as I was spinning the board and I flew like a stunt dummy. [WARNING: Children please don't try this at home.]
Flatland skim is a riot! Props to Lexi Hutchings and all her flair in this department.